THE SCENE : INDOCHINE

Kate Moss photo used with permission © photograph by Christy Turlington, 1995

EXPLORING 25 SPECTACULAR YEARS AT INDOCHINE 

To dine at Indochine is to pass through a portal into the illusive inner circle of the fashion elite. When the average patron comes to 430 Lafayette Street to indulge in some light French-Vietnamese cuisine, they are often unaware of the dramatic events that have most certainly occurred earlier in the same deep-green leather banquette where they now sit. Perhaps they will catch snippets of a conversation at a neighboring booth, glance over and spot renowned designer, Narciso Rodriguez gesticulating with verve while relating a story between bites. They shouldn’t be surprised; in the ever-evolving world of fashion, Indochine has maintained its premier status and posh clientele list.

To commemorate these 25 years of success—remaining at the forefront of New York’s social scene—the restaurant has compiled a collection of memories, showcased in the book Indochine: Stories Shaken and Stirred. Laden with its significant moments in history and pop culture, the publication tells the story of what was a raging party scene and reads like a star-studded yearbook, with extraordinary anecdotes and photographs.

Included in those photos were supermodels Linda Evangelista and Naomi Campbell, who flocked to this swanky hangout in the ’90s to take refuge from the spotlight. During this time, designer Helmut Lang also frequented the restaurant weekly. Year after year, Diane Von Furstenberg chooses Indochine as her venue of choice to celebrate another fashion show well done. And of course, any particularly pockmarked banquette is most likely the result of a Julia Restoin-Roitfeld and family fête, known for their extravagance and nightlong dancing by fabulous Miu Miu stilettoed partiers.

So what makes Indochine the perfect nook for the city’s big players in fashion to convene? While the menu has evolved over the years, the restaurant’s core essence has remained unchanged. It has the same appeal it did when it first opened its doors in 1984. The banana leaf mural on the walls has been the backdrop to many yet untold stories and nostalgia seeps from every inch of the tropical-chic interior. From drunken sexcapades in restroom stalls to A-list celebrity table-hopping into the early morning hours, anything and everything unfolded within the confines of Indochine over the years. Says Bethann Hardison, founder of Bethann Models, “Whoever did the hiring must have been a casting director.” Co-owner Jean-Marc Houmard agrees, acknowledging that his attractive staff doesn’t hurt. They have always been known to have gregarious personalities, which unfailingly makes any patron, obscure or infamous, feel at ease. 

Indochine’s 1920s Shanghai-themed 25^th anniversary bash was a testament that the party has yet to die for this iconic establishment. In a 7-hour celebration, a crowd comprised of fashion’s who’s who gathered to celebrate their ‘dear friend’. To many, Indochine holds tremendous sentimental value. Designer Anna Sui shares, “So many memorable things have happened to me at Indochine. I’ve fallen in love, met glamorous people, gotten a little tipsy and seen tabloid history.” Designers Tory Burch and Francisco Costa were also among the chic guests at this well orchestrated night of decadent debauchery. Even the waitresses got into the spirit. Bathed in crimson light, they served delectable cocktails and hors d'oeuvres while decked out in lavish ensembles of elaborate headpieces and slinky, sequined cocktail dresses, each chosen personally by Houmard.

Indochine has proven it its worth—and then some. Having withstood the test of time, it will undoubtedly remain a favorite spot for stylish restaurant goers for years to come. Unlike other “it” restaurants of the moment, Indochine offers not only delicious entrees and trendy décor, but a complete experience immersed in a rich culture all its own. Indochinenyc.com JESHIN CHUN